Exploring the Galápagos: An Expedition of a Lifetime
The Galápagos Islands have long been a bucket-list destination for travelers seeking untouched natural beauty and unparalleled wildlife encounters. My recent journey to this extraordinary archipelago with HX (Hurtigruten Expeditions) and Metropolitan Touring aboard the MS Santa Cruz II provided firsthand insight into the region’s biodiversity, conservation efforts, and the unique experience of exploring by expedition cruise. It was incredible!
Starting the Journey in Quito
Before setting foot in the Galápagos, our adventure began in Quito, Ecuador’s capital with an included tour. At 2,850 meters elevation, Quito is one of the highest capital cities in the world and is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture and UNESCO World Heritage listed historic centre. Our guided tour included the stunning church La Compañía de Jesús with its intricate gold-leaf interior, visit to a family-run beans-to-bar chocolate business with demonstration, and stroll through Calle La Ronda and Plaza Grande before continuing to a scenic restaurant in the cloud forest for lunch, and finally the Ciudad Mitad del Mundo or Middle of the World city, right on the equator.
Arrival and Departure Process
The journey to the Galápagos requires careful planning due to strict conservation regulations. Travelers typically fly from Quito or Guayaquil to either Seymour Airport (Baltra) or San Cristóbal Airport. All bags are X-rayed and tagged before being checked in for the flight; bags are inspected again on arrival before guests can collect them. Travelers must also complete an arrival card, to be kept with their passport and presented upon departure. When leaving the Galápagos, bags are screened again to ensure no plant or animal materials are transported out of the islands.
The wildlife adventure began immediately with land iguanas lazing in the sun outside the arrivals hall to welcome us. With the arrivals process completed, we boarded our bus to the pier, donned lifejackets and boarded our pangas (zodiacs) for the journey to our awaiting expedition ship.
Life Onboard: A Floating Basecamp for Exploration
Sailing through the Galápagos on the MS Santa Cruz II offered an efficient and immersive way to experience the islands. Each day presented a new destination with varied landscapes and ecosystems. The ship was equipped with pangas for easy island access, a team of expert naturalists, and comfortable communal spaces for reviewing the day’s explorations. After days filled with snorkeling alongside sea lions, hiking through cacti-covered lava fields, or watching blue-footed boobies engage in their elaborate courtship displays, evenings onboard provided opportunities to engage in discussions with guides, review the next day’s itinerary, and reflect on the discoveries made.
One of the major benefits of traveling with HX and Metropolitan Touring is the all-inclusive nature of the fare, which covers a 2 night stay in Quito with tours, transfers, flights, meals, beverages, wetsuits and snorkeling gear, expert guides, gratuities, and even WiFi. This seamless experience ensures that guests can focus on exploration without worrying about additional costs.
If you’re considering a Galápagos expedition, I can help you navigate the many ship options to find the perfect fit for your interests and travel style.
The Guides: Experts in Science and Conservation
The most valuable aspect of the expedition was the team of highly trained naturalist guides, native Galapagueños with extensive knowledge of the Galápagos’ history, geology, and wildlife. These guides not only provided scientific explanations but also shared conservation efforts that protect the islands’ fragile ecosystems, and took delight in answering questions and sharing stories. Their expertise extended to marine biology, ornithology, and evolutionary science, and they offered detailed insights into species behaviors, ecological relationships, and the challenges of preserving such a unique environment. Myself and the other guests onboard appreciated interacting socially with the guides during excursions, onboard lectures, happy hours and during meals.
Why a Cruise is the Best Way to Experience the Galápagos
While some travelers opt for a land-based stay in the Galápagos, an expedition cruise offers access to multiple islands, each with distinct wildlife and landscapes. The Galápagos spans 8,000 square kilometres, with numerous remote sites that can only be visited by ship. A cruise allows for an efficient itinerary that minimizes unnecessary travel time while maximizing exploration. Wetsuits and snorkelling gear, lifejackets, towels are all stored onboard at the end of the day for convenience. Pangas used for excursions have enormous manoeuvrability, giving drivers the option to stop quickly, to circle easily or land in more challenging settings. In addition, the Ecuadorian government strictly controls visitor access, and ships follow pre-approved routes that reduce human impact while providing opportunities to observe animals in their natural habitats.
If you’re unsure whether a Galápagos cruise is right for you, I’d be happy to discuss the different options and what to expect from this type of journey.
Excursions for Every Comfort Level
This expedition was action-packed. From our first afternoon onboard, we ventured off on a variety of excursions and some days had early morning starts with as many as 3 excursions. While all guests needed to be able to navigate a flight of stairs, options were available for those who preferred a more relaxed pace and the activities were suitable for most ages, from school children to older adults. Every evening included a mandatory lecture about what to expect the next day, what to wear, schedule, the level of difficulty, etc.
Panga Rides & Glass-Bottom Boats: For those who preferred to stay dry, guided panga rides provided opportunities to explore coastal ecosystems and spot wildlife such as sea turtles and rays. Glass-bottom boats allowed guests to observe the marine world without getting into the water.
Snorkeling: Options ranged from deep-water snorkeling excursions (including one dubbed the “Rambo Snorkel”) to gentle, beach-based snorkeling. Beginners and advanced snorkelers alike had opportunities to swim with playful sea lions, reef sharks, and schools of vibrant fish.
Kayaking: Kayakers often encountered sea turtles, sea lions, and a variety of seabirds nesting along the cliffs.
Hiking & Nature Walks: Most land excursions included short to moderate hikes on rocky terrain, leading to spectacular viewpoints and unique wildlife encounters. While the trails required careful navigation, they were well marked, and our expedition guides were there to assist.
Unique Wildlife Encounters
The Galápagos Islands are known for their remarkable biodiversity, and each landing offered encounters with species found nowhere else in the world. I could write a whole series on the incredible wildlife here – and it truly is what makes the Galápagos such an incredible destination - but instead will just share a few of the many, many experiences that will remain in my memories.
The wildlife here has learned not to fear humans and remain as curious about us as we are about them. This is especially true with the curious sea lion pups which chased after us on the beach or frolicked around us while we snorkeled, or the adult sea lions resting on the trails, giving us a lazy once over as we skirted around them. We snorkeled along with a giant sea turtle in the turquoise water of a protected bay. There were so many birds - flocks of frigate birds circled close over our heads on a scenic panga ride, mothers and chicks nesting in the rocks were unfazed as we watched their activities. Sharks and rays drifted slowly through the waters beneath us. Giant tortoises dotted the roads and fields of the highlands, bathing in the muddy pools and feasting on the foliage as we watched from a short distance away. Land and marine iguanas rested in the sun as we strolled past on our hikes. We watched while a sea lion repeatedly threw its freshly caught fish into the air to bite off chunks.
Each area of the Galápagos we visited offered an extraordinary terrain or unique wildlife habitat that presented so many opportunities to learn and to simply appreciate the beauty of this incredible, fragile place and its remarkable inhabitants.
Final Thoughts
Every moment in the Galápagos reinforced the value of responsible travel. From expert-led excursions to the efficient logistics of an expedition cruise, this was an experience that deepened my understanding of biodiversity and the importance of conservation. If the Galápagos is on your list, exploring by ship provides the best opportunity to witness its unparalleled wildlife and landscapes while supporting ongoing efforts to protect this extraordinary ecosystem.
If you're ready to plan your own Galápagos adventure, I’d love to help you design a seamless, unforgettable experience tailored to your preferences.
The itinerary I enjoyed with HX was In Darwin’s Footsteps (Eastern Route) in December 2024 which included stops at Mosquera Islet, Cerro Colorado Tortoise Reserve and Punta Pitt on Santa Cruz, Santa Fe and South Plaza, Charles Darwin Research Station and highlands visit on Santa Cruz, Punta Suarez and Gardner Bay on Espanola and Osborn Islet, Eden Islet and North Seymour.
Thank you to the photographers in our group who added so many amazing images to a shared drive and for whom I have no way to give credit.
